An Unseen Threat: The Rise of Undisclosed Lab-Grown Diamonds in the Natural Brown Diamond Market
A subtle but significant challenge is emerging within the diamond industry, threatening to erode consumer confidence and catch unsuspecting jewelers in its net. As the market for natural brown and other off-color diamonds enjoys a renaissance, fueled by major marketing initiatives, a parallel and more clandestine trend has surfaced: the undisclosed mixing of small, lab-grown brown diamonds with their natural counterparts. Gemological Science International (GSI), a leading gemological laboratory, is sounding the alarm on a sharp increase in this deceptive practice, creating a new layer of complexity for manufacturers, retailers, and consumers alike.
The “Desert Diamonds” Campaign and Its Unintended Consequences
The current spotlight on brown diamonds is no accident. Diamond giant De Beers has launched its “Ombré Desert Diamonds” initiative, the company’s first major “beacon” program in over a decade, designed to invigorate the market by celebrating the unique, earthy tones of natural diamonds. This campaign strategically positions these stones—with hues from warm whites to rich champagnes and ambers—as a direct response to the rise of colorless, mass-produced lab-grown diamonds. De Beers aims to create a “defensible ‘white space’ in the diamond market that lab-grown diamonds can’t touch: diamonds not just created by nature, but also colored by it.” With research showing that 90% of consumers are interested in these unique stones, the campaign is tapping into a desire for authenticity and a connection to nature.
However, this successful marketing push has had an unforeseen and problematic side effect. The increased demand and visibility of brown diamonds have created a ripe opportunity for deception. Mark Gershburg, CEO of GSI, explains the dangerous assumption many are making: “We are seeing much more brown and off-color melee, because of the marketing push. And people assume that because De Beers is advertising brown stones, must be natural.” This assumption is proving to be a costly mistake for some.
GSI’s Alarming Discovery: A Spike in Undisclosed Synthetics
GSI has reported a “notable increase” in undisclosed lab-grown brown, yellow, and pink diamonds infiltrating the natural diamond supply chain. This isn’t a case of a few isolated incidents; according to Gershburg, it’s a daily occurrence across all their labs, from India to Thailand and beyond. While synthetic brown diamonds are not a new phenomenon, the surge is now concentrated in smaller sizes, known as melee, which are the tiny stones often used in pavé settings or to accentuate a central gem.
Debbie Azar, President and co-founder of GSI, has been vocal about the escalating issue. “Over the past several months, our team has seen a rise in laboratory-grown colored diamonds, primarily in brown, yellow, and pink, being mixed in with natural-colored diamonds in jewelry,” she stated. The financial implications are significant, as a vast price difference exists between natural fancy colored diamonds and their lab-grown equivalents. This quiet infiltration undermines the very market De Beers is trying to bolster, replacing the story of rarity and natural origin with one of undisclosed artifice.
The Challenge of Detection: Why Brown Diamonds are a Perfect Target
Detecting these tiny imposters is a formidable challenge, both technically and logistically. The issue is compounded by the fact that much of the industry’s screening infrastructure was developed with colorless diamonds in mind.
Hiding in Plain Sight: The Limitations of Standard Screening
One of the primary difficulties is that most automated screening machines are not calibrated to detect synthetic colored diamonds effectively. “The challenge arises as most jewelry screening equipment in the market is designed to screen white near-colorless diamonds,” Azar notes. This technological gap provides a perfect loophole for undisclosed colored stones to pass through initial quality control checks.
Furthermore, some producers of these undisclosed synthetics are going to great lengths to make their product harder to identify. GSI has observed that some lab-grown brown diamonds are being intentionally grown or treated to include flaws that mimic those found in natural stones, such as severe fractures, pinpoint clouds, and distinct brown grain lines. Gershburg points out the inexperience of some manufacturers who are new to the brown diamond market. “A lot of manufacturers never thought of browns as something that could be mixed in,” he says. “They don’t have the expertise that people who have been dealing with them for a long time have.”
The Melee Minefield: When Stones Are Already Set
The problem escalates dramatically when dealing with finished jewelry. A piece can be adorned with hundreds of melee stones. If just a few of those are lab-grown, identifying them is a painstaking process. With settings like invisible or channel settings, popping a single stone out for testing is not an option without destroying the integrity of the entire piece. This leaves jewelers in a precarious position, potentially owning or selling an item whose composition they cannot fully guarantee without dismantling it.
Advanced laboratory techniques are required for positive identification. Gemological labs like GSI employ a battery of sophisticated tests, including Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), which analyzes the molecular composition of a diamond to determine its type based on the presence and arrangement of impurities like nitrogen. Raman spectroscopy and advanced imaging technologies like DiamondView are also crucial parts of the verification arsenal. These technologies can spot the subtle differences in crystal growth structures that distinguish a diamond grown in a lab from one formed over billions of years deep within the Earth.
A Shock to the System: The Impact on the Jewelry Industry
For manufacturers who discover their supply chain has been contaminated, the news is often a shock. The infiltration is frequently unintentional at the manufacturing level, a result of a lack of segregation further up the supply chain. “A lot of times, the cutters do both natural and lab-grown, and there’s no clear separation. So everything gets mixed up,” Gershburg explains.
This mixing erodes the foundation of trust upon which the jewelry trade is built. It creates a liability for retailers and a potential for consumer fraud. An engagement ring or a piece of fine jewelry is purchased with the belief that it is exactly what it is represented to be. The discovery of undisclosed lab-grown stones, even small ones, can shatter that belief and damage the reputation of the seller.
The issue has become significant enough to draw widespread industry attention. Trade organizations have been compelled to act, with bodies like India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) forming monitoring committees to ensure the proper segregation of natural and synthetic stones and to establish clear policies against misrepresentation.
A Call for Vigilance and Transparency
The message from GSI and other industry watchdogs is clear: vigilance is paramount. Jewelers and manufacturers, especially those new to the burgeoning brown diamond market, must implement rigorous screening protocols. This includes investing in advanced detection equipment or partnering with reputable gemological labs to verify their inventory, both loose stones and finished jewelry.
As the technology to create lab-grown diamonds continues to advance, making them ever more similar to their natural counterparts, the need for stringent testing and full disclosure becomes even more critical. The future of the natural diamond market, particularly in burgeoning segments like “Desert Diamonds,” depends on its ability to guarantee the authenticity of its product. Without that assurance, the powerful narrative of rarity, uniqueness, and natural origin could be compromised, leaving consumers to wonder if they are buying a piece of the earth’s history or a product of a laboratory.
