A Journey Through Time: Pomellato’s ‘Collezione 1967’ Reimagines an Iconic Legacy
In the heart of Milan, a city synonymous with design innovation and effortless style, the story of Pomellato began in 1967. It was a year of cultural revolution, and founder Pino Rabolini captured this spirit with a radical vision: to create precious jewelry that women could buy for themselves and wear every day. This was the birth of prêt-à-porter jewelry, a concept that shattered the rigid conventions of high jewelry, which had long been confined to formal occasions and bank vaults. Now, Pomellato, the master of Milanese chic, embarks on a dazzling journey back to its origins with “Collezione 1967,” a new high jewelry collection that is both a nostalgic ode and a bold look forward.
Comprising 75 masterfully crafted pieces, this collection is not merely a retrospective. It is a vibrant conversation with the past, a reinterpretation of the brand’s most defining moments. The collection is structured as a triptych, charting a course through three pivotal decades that forged the Pomellato identity we know today: the rebellious chain-making of the 1970s, the audacious sculptural forms of the 1980s, and the revolutionary use of color in the 1990s. As Creative Director Vincenzo Castaldo eloquently states, “The new high jewelry collection marks a powerful return to our roots, distilling the essence of three decades, capturing moments that have defined Pomellato’s identity as we love it today: unconventional and unmistakable.” This is more than a collection; it is a wearable history, a testament to a legacy of breaking rules with impeccable taste.
The Seventies: The Audacity of the Chain
Forging a New Language in Gold
The 1970s was a decade of liberation. As social norms relaxed, so did fashion. The heavy, ceremonial jewels of the past felt out of step with the new spirit of freedom. Into this landscape, Pino Rabolini introduced the chain as a protagonist. Drawing from the deep well of Milanese goldsmithing traditions, he transformed the humble chain from a mere support for a pendant into the main event. It became a symbol of empowerment and modern femininity—sensual, fluid, and designed for life, not just for an evening. These chains were supple, substantial, and possessed a tangible warmth, wrapping the wearer in a golden embrace that was both luxurious and profoundly personal. The 20 pieces in this chapter of Collezione 1967 honor this foundational legacy, celebrating the very DNA of Pomellato.
Spotlight on the Aquamarine Dream Necklace
At the heart of the 1970s revival is the Aquamarine Dream necklace, a breathtaking re-envisioning of the brand’s signature forçat chain. This is not just a necklace; it is a masterpiece of engineering and artistry. The iconic gourmette links, hand-forged in lustrous rose gold, are meticulously encrusted with a river of diamonds, tracing their generous curves with a scintillating light. The true soul of the piece, however, lies in its two magnificent aquamarines.
Anchoring the design is a spectacular 37.98-carat rounded-rectangular cabochon aquamarine. Its smooth, polished surface holds the serene, oceanic depths of a tranquil lagoon, its color a pure, icy blue. Suspended below it, a 15.95-carat faceted drop pendant aquamarine captures and refracts light with every movement, creating a cascade of liquid brilliance. Pomellato’s genius is evident not only in the visual splendor but also in the thoughtful ergonomics. The necklace features dégradé links that are discreetly smaller at the back for maximum comfort, gradually increasing in size and volume as they approach the front. This ensures the necklace sits perfectly on the décolletage, a seamless fusion of opulent aesthetics and wearable design.
The Eighties: A Symphony of Sculptural Power
The Era of Power Dressing and Bold Forms
If the seventies were about fluid freedom, the eighties were about unapologetic presence. It was the decade of “more is more,” of power dressing, bold shoulders, and statement-making style. Jewelry was no exception; it became bigger, bolder, and more architectural. Pomellato perfectly captured this maximalist ethos, creating jewels that were sculptural, three-dimensional, and commanded attention. The house’s modern interpretation of this period, showcased in 18 avant-garde pieces, celebrates this fearless spirit, highlighting asymmetrical designs and unconventional cuts that feel as contemporary today as they were revolutionary then.
Tanzanite Fantasies and Asymmetrical Brilliance
This chapter is a masterclass in volume and form. A stunning matching necklace and ring set exemplifies the era’s daring. Centered on magnificent violet-blue tanzanites, the gemstones are presented in unusual, irregular cuts, defying traditional symmetry and allowing their natural character to shine. The rich, velvety twilight hues of the tanzanites are set against bold gold settings, creating a dramatic interplay of color and structure.
Perhaps the most dramatic piece in this chapter is a stunning diamond collar. A constellation of pavé-set gold links forms a wide, articulated band that rests powerfully on the collarbone. From this brilliant base, seven sizable aquamarines are scattered in a deliberately asymmetrical arrangement. Presented in a medley of different cuts and sizes, they appear like crystalline dewdrops on a golden vine. This rebellion against perfect symmetry is a hallmark of Pomellato’s design philosophy, creating a sense of dynamic energy and modern artistry. It is a jewel that doesn’t just accessorize an outfit; it defines it.
The Nineties: The Triumph of Unconventional Color
A Chromatic Rebellion Against Minimalism
The 1990s are often remembered for their stark minimalism—a palette of black, white, and beige. Yet, in a characteristically contrarian move, Pomellato chose this very decade to unleash an explosion of color. The brand became a pioneer in exploring the expressive potential of colored gemstones, often combining them in radical, unheard-of combinations. This chromatic expertise introduced an entirely new dimension to the Pomellato vocabulary, reflecting a deep-seated optimism that defied the prevailing aesthetic. The use of large, juicy cabochons and innovative gem cuts became integral to the brand’s identity, a signature of joy and vibrant self-expression.
The Lagoon Bavarole: A Cascade of Green Tourmaline
The 37 pieces that compose this final chapter serve as a glorious ode to this passion for color. The undisputed star is the Lagoon Bavarole necklace, a piece that embodies the very essence of Pomellato’s gemstone artistry. A Bavarole is a long, elegant sautoir-style necklace, and this interpretation is a veritable waterfall of light and color. It features an astonishing 47 irregular-cut green tourmalines, carefully selected to create a spectacular spectrum of verdant hues. The gems range from the deep, mysterious shade of a forest floor to the bright, effervescent green of fresh mint, each one possessing its own unique personality.
These magnificent tourmalines are set in a graduated cascade, suspended from delicate, pavé-set rope chains that shimmer like threads of spun moonlight. The result is a piece that is both opulent and incredibly fluid, moving with the wearer to create a mesmerizing dance of green and gold. The Lagoon Bavarole is more than just a beautiful object; it is a statement of Pomellato’s contrarian elegance and its enduring belief in the power of color to evoke emotion and celebrate life. It is the perfect culmination of a collection that honors a rich history while continuing to write its next chapter.
