A Parisian Treasure Chest: Bonhams’ Auction Unveils a Century of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Brilliance
Paris, the undisputed capital of high fashion and luxury, prepared to host an event that sent whispers of excitement through the world of haute joaillerie. On October 16th, the prestigious auction house Bonhams was set to open the doors to its “Paris Jewels” sale, a curated spectacle of 180 lots featuring the most revered names in jewelry history. While titans like Cartier, Bulgari, and Harry Winston were present, the undeniable star of the show was the legendary Maison of Van Cleef & Arpels. With nearly two dozen exceptional pieces spanning from the golden age of the 1930s to the contemporary era, the auction offered a breathtaking journey through the brand’s enduring legacy of elegance, innovation, and unparalleled craftsmanship.
This was more than just an auction; it was a museum-quality exhibition where each piece told a story. The collection promised to be a dazzling chronicle of artistic evolution, from the geometric precision of Art Deco to the whimsical charm of modern motifs, all unified by the singular vision that has defined Van Cleef & Arpels for over a century. For collectors, connoisseurs, and lovers of fine jewelry, the Bonhams event was an unmissable opportunity to acquire a piece of wearable art, a fragment of history forged in gold, platinum, and the world’s most magnificent gemstones.
A Journey Through Van Cleef & Arpels‘ Timeless Legacy
The selection of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces at the auction was a masterful retrospective of the Maison’s most iconic designs. It was a testament to their ability to not only capture the spirit of an era but to create jewels that transcend time itself. As Marine Girardet, Bonhams’ Head of Jewelry in France, eloquently stated, “Paris Jewels puts the spotlight on the world of Van Cleef & Arpels with designs spanning the decades… that showcase the maison’s exceptional craftsmanship and technical abilities in creating sophisticated jewels.”
The Enduring Elegance of the Art Deco ‘Rubans’ Brooch
Leading this magnificent procession of jewels was a piece that epitomizes the glamour and sophistication of the Art Deco period: a “Rubans” bow brooch from 1937. Estimated to fetch between $17,000 and $29,000, this exquisite creation is far more than a simple accessory. It is a masterpiece of design and engineering. Crafted in 18k gold and platinum, its openwork structure creates a sense of lightness and fluidity, as if a real silk ribbon has been artfully tied and frozen in a cascade of diamonds.
The brooch features a stunning interplay of baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds, a hallmark of Art Deco design that emphasizes clean lines and geometric symmetry. The baguette diamonds provide a crisp, linear framework, while the brilliant-cut stones add a scintillating fire, creating a dynamic visual texture. This piece perfectly captures the Van Cleef & Arpels’ fascination with couture, transforming the softness of fabric into the permanence of precious metal and gems. “The ‘Rubans’ brooch has stood the test of time and remains as stylish today as when it was first imagined in 1937,” noted Girardet. Indeed, to wear this brooch is to wear a piece of 1930s Parisian chic, a symbol of an era of unparalleled elegance that continues to inspire designers today.
The Luck of the Alhambra: A Symphony of Gemstones
No showcase of Van Cleef & Arpels would be complete without its most globally recognized and beloved creation: the Alhambra. Inspired by the four-leaf clover, a universal symbol of good luck, the Alhambra collection was born in 1968 and quickly became an emblem of the Maison. The auction featured several stunning examples of this iconic design, led by a vibrant Lucky Alhambra sautoir.
This long necklace is a joyful celebration of color and texture, featuring the signature quatrefoil motifs crafted from a harmonious blend of mother-of-pearl, deep black onyx, verdant malachite, shimmering tiger’s eye, and rich carnelian. Each stone, chosen for its unique quality and symbolic meaning, is meticulously shaped and polished before being set in delicate beaded gold settings. The Lucky Alhambra necklace, with an estimate of up to $23,000, is not just a piece of jewelry but a talisman, designed to bring fortune and happiness to its wearer.
Alongside this multicolored masterpiece, the auction offered several other Alhambra sautoirs, each dedicated to the singular beauty of one gemstone. Collectors had the opportunity to bid on versions featuring the soft, milky green of chrysoprase, the dramatic intensity of onyx, the iridescent glow of mother-of-pearl, the golden chatoyancy of tiger’s eye, or the warm, sunny hue of coral. Offered in two different sizes of the classic quatrefoil motif, these pieces demonstrate the versatility and timeless appeal of the Alhambra design, a testament to its status as a true icon of modern jewelry.
Beyond Van Cleef & Arpels: A Treasure Trove of Iconic Maisons
While Van Cleef & Arpels held the spotlight, the Bonhams auction was an all-encompassing celebration of jewelry design, featuring rare and important pieces from other legendary houses and artists.
Art Meets Jewelry: The Rare Creations of Georges Braque
Among the most intriguing lots were two exceptionally rare brooches from the 1960s, designed by none other than Georges Braque, the co-founder of Cubism. These pieces represent a fascinating intersection of modern art and high jewelry. The auction included a whimsical bird brooch, its form sculpted in 18k gold with a vibrant ruby for an eye, and a captivating fish brooch, its body brought to life with the ethereal play-of-color of a fine opal, estimated at $7,000 to $9,300. These are not just ornaments but miniature sculptures, carrying the unique artistic signature of one of the 20th century’s most important painters.
The Bold and the Beautiful: Ingenuity from Seaman Schepps and Cartier
The sale also featured a remarkable brooch-watch by the celebrated American jeweler Seaman Schepps. Known for his bold, unconventional, and often “barbaric” combinations of materials, this piece is a testament to his creative genius. The 14k yellow gold brooch is a riot of color and form, featuring circular-cut garnets, step-cut emeralds, and a constellation of cabochon emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, interspersed with diamonds of various cuts. A masterfully carved emerald cabochon cleverly conceals a watch dial with Arabic numerals, making this a true conversation piece. With an estimate of $9,300 to $14,000, it represents a unique piece of American jewelry history.
Representing classic French elegance was a timeless “Trinity” bracelet by Cartier. The iconic design of three interlocking bands of yellow, white, and rose gold—symbolizing fidelity, friendship, and love—remains one of the most beloved and recognizable jewelry designs in the world.
Dazzling Diamonds and Historic Heirlooms
For lovers of pure, unadulterated sparkle, the auction did not disappoint. The highlights included two magnificent diamond solitaire rings, weighing an impressive 8.58 and 6.41 carats, respectively. These were stones of significant size and importance, destined to become modern heirlooms. Adding to the brilliance were a pair of stunning 18k gold chandelier earrings set with pear-shaped diamonds, their cascading design promising to dance with light with every movement (estimate 29,000). A beautiful pair of diamond earrings with a lustrous pearl drop offered versatile elegance, as they could be converted to simple studs for daytime wear.
History was also beautifully represented by a spectacular bracelet from the 1880s, a testament to the exquisite craftsmanship of the late Victorian era, featuring a lavish design of emeralds, diamonds, and cultured pearls. This was beautifully complemented by a circa 1935 hinged diamond bracelet, its sleek, articulated design showcasing the transition into the modern age. A sophisticated suite of sapphire and diamond earrings with a matching brooch rounded out the offerings, providing a complete look of classic, regal glamour.
In sum, the Bonhams “Paris Jewels” auction was a brilliantly curated event that offered a panoramic view of the art of jewelry. It was a celebration of history, a showcase of masterful technique, and a testament to the enduring power of beautiful design. From the timeless chic of Van Cleef & Arpels to the artistic vision of Georges Braque, each piece in the sale was a star in its own right, waiting to begin its next chapter with a new custodian.
