There’s a palpable shift in the air when summer arrives. It’s more than just the climbing mercury on the thermometer or the blissful quiet of school-free streets. It’s a feeling—a collective exhalation. The days stretch languidly, filled with the promise of sun-drenched afternoons and evenings scented with salt and sunscreen. This is the season of escapism, a time when our spirits yearn for the primal, rhythmic pulse of the ocean. And as we shed our heavier layers, we seek adornments that echo this liberation. This year, more than ever, that desire is manifesting in the world of jewelry, where the ocean’s depths are being reimagined in shimmering gold, dazzling gemstones, and intricate, whimsical forms, which is called Nautical Jewelry.
From the sun-bleached white of a conch shell to the electric blue of a coral reef, the nautical aesthetic has seized the imagination of designers across the spectrum. This is not merely a fleeting trend; it’s a profound reflection of our collective desire to connect with the natural world and carry a piece of its magic with us. These are not just accessories; they are wearable talismans, miniature sculptures that hold the memory of crashing waves, the warmth of sand on skin, and the serene mystery of the deep. Whether destined for a glamorous white party on a rooftop overlooking the coast or simply to add a touch of sunshine to a poolside afternoon, the sirens of the sea are calling, and the world of fine jewelry has answered with breathtaking creativity.
Sanaz Doost: Forging Golden Tides in Toronto
Far from the tropical shores that inspire her work, within the sophisticated confines of her Toronto atelier, designer Sanaz Doost translates the ephemeral beauty of the ocean into solid, wearable art. Her medium is 18k gold, and her philosophy is one of creating meaningful, bold pieces that are as much a statement of personal style as they are a testament to exquisite craftsmanship. At the recent Couture show in Las Vegas, a showcase for the world’s most innovative jewelry, Doost unveiled a collection that felt like a treasure chest recovered from a mythical shipwreck.
Among her newest creations is a ring that perfectly captures the subtle beauty of the shoreline. Carved from a magnificent piece of tiger’s eye, its undulating bands of gold and brown mimic the patterns left by a receding tide on wet sand. The gem itself, shaped into a gentle, organic shell silhouette, seems to glow from within, its chatoyancy catching the light with every movement. Tucked almost secretively on its side is a tiny, vibrant cabochon of turquoise—a single drop of perfect ocean blue against the warm, earthy tones of the stone.
However, the undisputed star of her seasonal offerings is the majestic Peacock ring. This is not a piece for the faint of heart. It is a bold declaration, a conversation starter designed to anchor an entire ensemble. A magnificent, custom-cut slice of natural Persian turquoise sits at its center, its color an intense, pure blue, webbed with the delicate matrix that is the hallmark of the finest specimens. Doost has set this incredible gem in a lavish nest of 18k gold, which has been meticulously sandblasted to create a soft, matte texture. “I am captivated by the contrast of that brilliant, almost electric blue against the soft texture of the sandblasted gold,” Doost explains. “It’s a direct homage to the elements. It reminds me of the vibrant sea meeting the fine, sun-warmed sand. It’s a moment of natural perfection I wanted to capture and make permanent.” Worn on a summer evening, the Peacock ring is more than jewelry; it’s a portable piece of paradise.
Sydney Evan: Nostalgia and Elegance on the Waves
For Rosanne Karmes, the founder and designer behind the beloved brand Sydney Evan, the ocean’s allure is deeply intertwined with memory and emotion. Her new Nautical collection is a masterclass in capturing this nostalgic spirit, translating the playful innocence of a seaside holiday into pieces of sophisticated, everyday luxury. Karmes has a unique talent for creating jewelry that feels both timeless and perfectly of-the-moment, and this collection is a prime example.
Consider her gold and diamond starfish earrings. They are instant classics, their five arms delicately rendered and sprinkled with pavé diamonds that glitter like sea spray in the sun. They evoke coastal charm without being overly literal, perfect for adding a subtle maritime sparkle. For those seeking a more vibrant expression of summer, Karmes offers a stunning pool-day bracelet. It features a strand of milky blue opal rondelles, each bead shimmering with an internal fire that recalls sunlight filtering through clear turquoise water. The centerpiece is a delightful diamond and sapphire dolphin charm, its sleek body arching in a perpetual, joyful leap.
“The Nautical collection is about capturing that nostalgic feeling of the sea, but in an elegant, refined way,” says Karmes. “Whether it’s the pink sapphire and diamond starfish earrings or the diamond multi-shell bracelet, each piece is a tribute to the profound beauty and serenity of the ocean. It’s about more than just aesthetics; it’s about weaving a bit of that beachside magic into the fabric of our everyday lives, reminding us of the peace and freedom we feel by the water.”
Jenna Blake: Audacious Color and Deep-Sea Wonders
If some designers whisper of the sea, Jenna Blake sings its praises in a vibrant, technicolor chorus. Known for her audacious use of color and bold, graphic designs, Blake has responded to the growing demand for resort-inspired pieces by creating a collection of charms that feel like a luxury vacation distilled into wearable form. Her work channels a spirit of waterfront escape, infused with her signature kaleidoscopic palette.
Her menagerie of sea creatures is a testament to her playful yet luxurious approach. Bejeweled seahorses with gemstone eyes swim alongside diamond-framed nautilus shells. Starfish are rendered not just in gold, but in vibrant enamel and contrasting stones. These are not mere trinkets; they are miniature masterpieces of wit and style, designed to be layered, mixed, and matched to create a personal narrative of summer adventure.
The undisputed showstopper, however, is a piece that transforms one of the ocean’s most feared inhabitants into an object of breathtaking desire: a pair of 18k gold jellyfish earrings. These are no simple studs. They are articulated, sculptural marvels. The bell of each jellyfish is a dome of polished gold, while a cascade of tentacles flows beneath, each one dripping with an astonishing 26.23 carats of diamonds. They are designed to move with the wearer, the diamond tentacles shimmering and swaying, creating an effect of liquid light. It’s a brilliant subversion, taking a creature known for its sting and reimagining it as an emblem of ethereal, untouchable beauty. With these earrings, Jenna Blake has crafted the one sea creature you’ll long to have close.
A Wider Ocean of Choices
The call of the sea has echoed throughout the industry, with numerous other houses offering their own interpretations. The venerable Italian brand Picchiotti presents a classic, high-jewelry vision with exquisite coral pieces, pairing the rich, organic orange of Mediterranean coral with the fiery brilliance of diamonds in timeless, elegant designs that speak of old-world glamour on the Amalfi Coast. For a more minimalist take, Goldstories offers delicate 18k gold shell pendants and slender, wave-inspired stacking rings, perfect for those who prefer their ocean tributes to be subtle and personal. The trend also breathes new life into pearls, with designers embracing baroque and oddly shaped pearls, setting them in organic, flowing settings that celebrate their natural, imperfect beauty, reminding us that the greatest treasures are often shaped by the unpredictable forces of the tide.
Ultimately, this pervasive trend is about more than just aesthetics. In a world that often feels chaotic and overwhelming, the ocean represents a powerful and constant source of tranquility and wonder. To wear a piece of shell, coral, or a golden sea creature is to carry a personal anchor to that feeling. It is a declaration of optimism, a celebration of nature’s artistry, and a tangible link to the joyful, carefree spirit that defines the perfect summer day. It is wearable sunshine, a fragment of the eternal coast, promising that no matter where you are, a piece of the beach is always with you.
