Gucci’s Grand Renaissance: A New Manifesto of Italian Luxury
In the heart of Paris, amidst the whirlwind of creativity and unparalleled craftsmanship that is Haute Couture Week, Gucci has unfurled its most ambitious and breathtaking statement on high jewelry to date. This was not a singular, fleeting moment but a profound declaration of a new era. The legendary Florentine house presented a magnificent triptych of collections, each a universe unto itself, collectively exploring the farthest reaches of artisanal skill, technical innovation, and deeply resonant aesthetic storytelling. From the sun-dappled geometries of Italian gardens to the architectural marvels of high watchmaking and a historic collaboration with fellow Italian icon Pomellato, Gucci is meticulously crafting a new lexicon for luxury in 2025 and beyond—one that is at once reverent to its past, boldly contemporary, and unmistakably, thrillingly Gucci.
Taken together, these latest haute collections signal a definitive chapter under the creative direction of Sabato De Sarno. It is a vision of opulence that moves beyond mere ostentation, championing a more personal, intellectual, and sensual connection to precious objects. This is Italian luxury that is meant to be lived with, dreamt of, and felt on the skin—a deeply referential, defiantly modern, and masterfully executed renaissance.
Labirinti Gucci: A Journey Through Italy’s Mythical Gardens
The centerpiece of Gucci’s offering is the magnificent expansion of Labirinti Gucci, the high jewelry collection first introduced in 2023. For 2024, the house adds twenty new one-of-a-kind creations that delve deeper into its core inspiration: the mesmerizing, formal beauty of classic Italian gardens. These are not wild, untamed landscapes but spaces of deliberate design, where nature is sculpted by human hands into symmetrical patterns, winding pathways, and breathtaking vistas. The collection is a masterful ode to this harmony of geometry and organic life, imbued with a symphony of color and a palpable sense of movement.
The Philosophy of the Labyrinth
The concept of the labyrinth, or labirinto, is central to the collection’s soul. It represents a journey of discovery, a structured path that leads to a hidden heart or a profound revelation. In the context of Italian gardens like the famous Boboli Gardens in Florence or Villa d’Este near Rome, the labyrinth is a place of wonder and contemplation. Gucci translates this philosophy into jewels that guide the eye along intricate lines and towards spectacular gemstone centerpieces. The designs play with themes of order and chaos, symmetry and asymmetry, creating a dynamic tension that is both intellectually stimulating and visually stunning. Each piece invites the wearer on a personal voyage through emerald greens, sapphire blues, and diamond-bright whites, echoing the shaded walkways, vibrant flowerbeds, and glistening fountains of a dreamlike Italian estate.
Masterpieces of Light and Color
The execution of this vision is nothing short of extraordinary. A standout creation that perfectly encapsulates the collection’s ethos is a stunning, close-fitting necklace designed to grace the collarbone. Its form is defined by exquisitely clean lines of pavé-set diamonds that trace a perfect, symmetrical curve, like the manicured hedges of a formal garden. These crystalline pathways converge upon a breathtaking centerpiece where a magnificent tanzanite, with its deep, velvety blue-violet hues, is juxtaposed with the electric, neon-teal fire of a rare Paraiba tourmaline. The piece is a masterclass in color theory and gemological curation, a wearable sculpture that radiates with an inner light.
This romantic complexity echoes throughout the collection. Another show-stopping piece is a garlanded necklace that drapes upon the décolletage like a cascade of celestial foliage. Delicate vines of brilliant diamonds and deep blue tanzanites suspend a truly monumental 52.86-carat aquamarine. The gemstone, with its pristine clarity and tranquil, sea-blue color, appears like a pool of pure light captured within a diamond embrace. The craftsmanship is so precise that the entire piece, despite its significant weight, seems to float with an ethereal lightness. The theme of natural beauty continues in a spectacular rose-inspired ring, where a 6-carat aquamarine is cradled within a blossoming halo of individually set, marquise-cut diamond “petals,” each one positioned to capture and reflect light from every angle.
Reimagining House Icons with Precious Stones
Gucci also seizes this opportunity to elevate its most iconic motifs to the realm of high jewelry. The equestrian-inspired Horsebit, a symbol of the house since the 1950s, is brilliantly reimagined. On one bracelet, the double ring and bar design is rendered in white gold and flawlessly pavé-set with deep, royal blue sapphires, transforming it from a symbol of sporting life into one of modern nobility. In a matching set of earrings and a collar necklace, the Horsebit is enlivened with a vibrant and unexpected combination of rich red rubies and verdant green tsavorites, a nod to Gucci’s historic love of bold color pairings.
The nautical Marina Chain, another beloved house code, is reconceived as a fluid and elegant pendant necklace. Its interlocking links, polished to a mirror-like finish, culminate in a pendant that anchors a 3.4-carat aquamarine amidst a sparkling constellation of diamonds and sapphires. Elsewhere, a magnificent link necklace dazzles with a joyful symphony of multicolor precious gems, offered as a complete parure with a matching bracelet. This chromatic dialogue between stones—spinels, tourmalines, garnets, and more—feels quintessentially Gucci, a celebration of life and exuberant self-expression.
The Art of Time: Gucci’s Horological Masterworks
Parallel to its jewelry universe, Gucci continues to assert its formidable presence in the world of high-end watchmaking. The house’s fifth annual high watchmaking collection demonstrates a profound commitment to marrying Swiss horological precision with Italian artistic sensibility. The timepieces are not merely instruments for telling time; they are miniature canvases for extraordinary craft.
The G-Timeless: A Canvas on the Wrist
The G-Timeless watch models become focal points for artistic expression. Each dial is a unique creation, meticulously hand-painted with intricate motifs by master artisans or inlaid with breathtaking micro-mosaics of natural gems and shimmering Venetian Murano glass. These pieces blur the line between watchmaking and fine art, offering a deeply personal and poetic way to experience time. One might feature a delicate hummingbird crafted from slivers of mother-of-pearl, while another could depict a cosmic scene rendered in crushed lapis lazuli and aventurine.
The Gucci 25H Amphitheater: Architectural Prowess
Perhaps the most technically impressive creation is the Gucci 25H Amphitheater. This watch is a testament to the maison’s soaring horological ambitions. It features an incredibly complex skeleton tourbillon movement, where the inner mechanics—the gears, springs, and beating heart of the watch—are artfully exposed for the wearer to admire. The design of the movement, with its concentric, diamond-set bridges, is directly inspired by the iconic architecture of Rome’s Colosseum, creating a powerful link between modern engineering and ancient grandeur. Cased within an impossibly slender 8.4mm profile, the 25H Amphitheater is a marvel of micro-engineering and a bold statement of Gucci’s prowess in the competitive arena of haute horlogerie.
Monili: A Groundbreaking Union of Florentine and Milanese Craft
The most talked-about moment of Gucci’s presentation, however, was arguably the unveiling of Monili, its first-ever high jewelry collaboration with Pomellato. As fellow members of the Kering luxury group, this partnership represents a historic meeting of two Italian titans—Gucci’s Florentine fashion legacy and Pomellato’s celebrated Milanese goldsmithing expertise. Debuted on the Cruise 2026 runway in Florence, the Monili collection is a masterstroke of design that feels both radically new and deeply authentic.
Leather Meets Gold in a Redefinition of Sensual Luxury
Monili—Italian for “jewels”—explores the powerful and sensual contrast between soft, supple leather and the radiant hardness of precious metal. The collection includes a series of sculptural bracelets and chokers that wrap the body in an intimate embrace. Pomellato’s signature mastery of voluminous, rounded forms and chain-work is evident in the polished white and rose gold elements, which feel both architectural and organic. These metallic forms are seamlessly integrated with bands of Gucci’s finest leather, creating pieces that are as much a part of the wearer’s wardrobe as they are precious jewels. The collaboration redefines the boundaries of high jewelry, presenting pieces that are designed to be worn with confidence and ease, bridging the gap between everyday luxury and exceptional adornment. They feel both powerful and personal, a perfect expression of a modern, lived-in opulence.
