Marie Lichtenberg Bet on Leather in 2026: Why the “Lasso” Collection is the Ultimate Power Move
In the high-stakes world of fine jewelry, 2026 has brought a unique set of challenges. With gold and silver prices shattering all-time records, the industry is holding its breath. Yet, amidst this economic pressure cooker, Parisian designer Marie Lichtenberg is doing what she does best: defying expectations. While others scramble to cut costs, Lichtenberg is introducing leather into her repertoire—not as a concession to the market, but as a bold, aesthetic declaration.
This month, the Paris-based artist—known for her storytelling lockets and vibrant, rebellious spirit—unveiled the Lasso collection. Comprising a short necklace and a bracelet, the collection utilizes premium Italian calf leather to create a look that is equal parts rugged and refined. For industry observers, it might look like a pivot away from precious metals. But Lichtenberg is quick to correct that assumption. This isn’t about saving money; it’s about evolution.
The Lasso Collection: Where Raw Meets Refined
At first glance, the Lasso collection feels like a natural progression for a brand that has always celebrated the tactile. Lichtenberg has previously seduced collectors with hand-woven saris cords, silk Mauli threads, and intricate beads. Now, she turns to the sensual weight of leather.
The star of this new lineup is the Lasso bracelet. Crafted from supple Italian calf leather in natural, brown, or black tones, it features one of Lichtenberg’s signature barrel-shaped lockets as the clasp. But these are not just functional closures; they are 18-karat gold sculptures, dotted with a single, potent gemstone—a ruby, an emerald, or a diamond.
A Calculated Aesthetic, Not a Compromise
The juxtaposition is striking. The warm, organic texture of the leather acts as a grounding force for the cold, brilliant gleam of the gold and gems.
“Leather introduces a different kind of tension,” Lichtenberg explains. “It brings something more raw, more grounded, and more lived-in to precious pieces. Brown tones in particular create contrast and warmth, anchoring the jewelry in something authentic rather than purely ornamental.”
This “tension” is central to the appeal. In a luxury market that can sometimes feel sterile or overly polished, the Lasso pieces offer a sense of “lived-in” luxury—the kind of jewelry that looks better the more you wear it, acquiring a patina that tells your personal story. The white gold version of the Lasso bracelet with a diamond is already sold out, a testament to the immediate hunger for this specific aesthetic.
The Lasso necklace, available in three versatile lengths (approx. 14.5, 16.5, or 20 inches), offers a similar vibe but is sold separately from the lockets, allowing collectors to curate their own “neck mess”—a styling trend that remains dominant in 2026.
Defying the Economics of Jewelry in 2026
To understand the significance of this launch, one must look at the broader economic context. 2026 has seen gold prices reach dizzying heights, forcing many designers to hollow out their pieces or switch to vermeil to keep retail prices palpable.
Lichtenberg has taken the opposite approach. Her strategy is counter-intuitive: go heavier, go harder, go higher.
“Following the rise in gold prices, all of our new designs are now crafted with more gold than before,” Lichtenberg states via email. “We chose to move upmarket and raise our level of standards. The use of leather is not a compromise—it is first and foremost an aesthetic choice.”
The $270,000 Suede Manifesto
If anyone doubted her commitment to “moving upmarket,” they need only look at her recent masterpiece: the High Jewelry Bandanna. Debuted to stunned audiences at the Couture show, this piece is the ultimate rebuttal to the idea that Lichtenberg is cutting corners.
Crafted from sage green suede, this isn’t a simple accessory; it is a six-figure work of art. The bandanna features nearly 400 hand-sculpted gold elements, weighing in at a staggering 280 grams of 18k gold. It is encrusted with over 17 carats of rubies and 3 carats of diamonds. Priced at approximately $270,540, the piece required 280 hours of labor, utilizing a specialized embroidery technique that stitches precious metals and gems directly into the leather.
This “suede bandanna” serves as a halo piece for the new Lasso collection. It proves that when Lichtenberg uses leather, she is treating it with the same reverence as a rare gemstone. It aligns perfectly with the current mood of the luxury consumer in 2026: a desire for pieces that are playful and culturally relevant, yet constructed with uncompromising, heirloom-quality weight.
From Elle Editor to Goldsmith: The Lichtenberg DNA
To truly appreciate the Lasso collection, one must understand the woman behind the brand. Marie Lichtenberg didn’t start in a workshop; she spent years as a fashion editor for Elle France. This editorial eye gives her a distinct advantage. she understands how jewelry is worn, not just how it is made. She knows that a piece must have a “cool factor” to survive the fickle waves of fashion.
The Creole Connection and the Forçat Chain
However, her inspiration runs deeper than fashion spreads. Lichtenberg’s mother is from Martinique, and her heritage plays a crucial role in her design language. Her iconic “Love Lockets” were originally inspired by the chaine forçat—a hollow gold chain traditionally given to young women in Creole culture. Historically, the link style references the chains of enslaved people, reclaimed as symbols of emancipation and strength.
The new leather Lasso collection continues this narrative of binding and unbinding. A lasso is a tool of capture, but in Lichtenberg’s hands, it becomes a symbol of connection. By mixing the rugged “American West” imagery of a lasso with the refined goldsmithing of Paris, she creates a trans-Atlantic dialogue that feels fresh and modern.
Material Innovation: Beyond the Lasso
Lichtenberg is no stranger to unconventional materials. Long before leather, she was disrupting the market with resin. In 2023, she launched the Raiz’in collection, a move that was as commercially savvy as it was satirical.
The Cult of Raiz’in
Faced with a flood of cheap counterfeits of her famous lockets, Lichtenberg decided to “counterfeit” herself. She released the Raiz’in line—official replicas of her own designs made from resin instead of enamel and gold. Originally priced at an accessible $240, these pieces were intended to be a fun entry point into the brand.
The irony? They became instant collector’s items. Today, on resale sites, Raiz’in necklaces trade for three times their original retail price. In 2024, she expanded the line to include scapular pendants made of gold-plated brass and glitter resin.
This history proves that Lichtenberg’s fans follow her not just for the gold content, but for the design philosophy. Whether it is resin, silk, or now, Italian leather, if Marie Lichtenberg touches it, it turns to gold—figuratively speaking.
The Future of the “Scary” Creative
As we move deeper into 2026, the Lasso bracelet and necklace are poised to become the new staples for the “it-girl” stack. The leather offers a perfect textured base for layering with heavy gold chains and pearls, fitting seamlessly into the “more is more” trend that Gen Z and luxury fashion patrons are embracing.
For Marie Lichtenberg, the shift to leather is just another step in a journey defined by risk-taking. She isn’t interested in playing it safe or following the safe path of traditional fine jewelry.
“Evolving feels natural—it’s about staying connected to my creative mind while pushing the work forward,” she says. “I love being ‘scary.’”
In an industry often paralyzed by tradition and fluctuating commodity prices, that willingness to be “scary”—to mix leather with diamonds, to embrace resin, to make a suede bandanna cost as much as a house—is exactly what makes Marie Lichtenberg one of the most exciting voices in modern luxury.
